Sun, sea and the sand combine to make Goa an ideal place to rest. With its 100 Km of coastline, it is a land of Golden beaches set against a backdrop of coconut palms and green rice fields. This former Portuguese colony offers some of the best un-spoilt beaches in South East Asia. With white washed buildings and Portuguese churches a Mediterranean atmosphere still exists here. Under the Portuguese it rapidly grew to rival Lisbon and many huge churches convents and monasteries were built. However, with the rise of British Dutch and French supremacy at sea, the Portuguese influence declined and so did Old Goa. Panjim is India's smallest state capital and perhaps one of the most pleasant. It retains a strong Portuguese flavor, and parts of the town have narrow winding streets. There are numerous cafes and small bars; many still have their signs in Portuguese.

Goa has been known as the land of the 4 S's: Sun, surf, sea and sand. The western world has by and large forsaken Goa for more pristine coastal resorts, while most of us still flock there in droves. A week by the seaside, cavorting in unspoilt waters and taking long leisurely evening walks is what Goa is all about. But there's more: its cultureal and natural treasures. As much as on the beach, Goa lives in its small towns and villages. For the real feel, wander around a town, pause to admire a magnificent piece of architecture, and you'll fall in love with a very different Goa.

PANAJI

Panaji is located on the south bank of Mandovi River. It has been the Capital for over 150 years and is one of India's smallest and the most pleasant state Capitals. The town has preserved its Portuguese heritage and parts of it still consist of narrow winding streets, old houses with over hanging balconies, red-tiled roofs and numerous small bars and cafes. Don't be surprised if you spot signs in Portuguese over shops, cafes and administrative buildings.

Expoloring Panaji

The best way is to take a walk or a pilot bike and cruise around the city. Goa is one of the few, if not the only state in India, where you have a motorcycle taxi, with place for just one passenger! Visit the 400 year-old Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception. It's renowned for its classic Portuguese Church architecture. There's feast here in December. On a ferry, cross the Mandovi to The Church of Reis Magos. It's a national monument.

MAPUSA

Just 13 km from Panaji, lies the small town of Mapusa. To experience the sounds and sights of rural Goa, visit the Friday Market where people from all over Goa congregate to sell wares. You can pick up anything - saplings, spiced pork sausages, dried fish and prawns, clothing, junk jewellery and the famous country liquor - at reasonable prices.

Also drop in at St. Jerome's Church, known for the devotion of Our Lady of Miracles. The locals believe that the Lady of Miracles is the sister of goddess Layeerai whose temple is situated at Sirigao.

MARGAO

Distinctly Portuguese, this town is 60 km southwards from Panaji. Besides a pretty church and an extensive covered market, there's not much to see here but it's a major transit point for the beaches of South Goa, like Colva, Serenbatim and Benaulim.

TEMPLES

Goa's cultural heritage doesn't end with the Portuguese. It still retains its original treasures, like temples that time and tourists have forgotten.

The Rock Cut Caves of Khandepar: Situated near Ponda, these four 12th Century caves are carved from a single block of laterite stone. The ceilings have a lantern pattern, inside which is the lotus motif and one of them even has a pedestal to hold a linga.

Arvalem: the rock cut caves here date back to 5th or 6th Century. The central part of the caves here holds a linga. Folk tales have it that the Pandavas stayed in these caves during their exile, and hence these caves are called Pandavas Caves, which are situated next to the picturesque Arvalem waterfall.

Lord Shiva Temple: Located 45 km from Panaji, it's the oldest one in Goa, dating from the Kadamba period (11th-13th centuries). The entire temple has been carved out of basalt rock.

NATURAL SPLENDOUR

Kalama Spring: Located 22 km from Panaji. People say its water has medicinal properties.

Mayem Lake: 35 km from Panaji, an ideal picnic spots amid rolling green hills. Spend a night in a cottage by the lakeside or go boating.

Dudhsagar Waterfall: A favourite hiking spot for trekkers.

Dr Salim Ali Bird Sancturary: Located at Chorao Island, it attracts many migratory birds and is a bird watcher's delight.

Bhagwan Mahavir Wild Life Sanctuary: Situated at Molem, this is a bird watcher's paradise and is close to the Dudhsagar waterfalls.

Bondla Forest: A great jungle resort with a mini-zoo, a deer park in natural habitat, botanical garden and residential facilities.

FORTS
You can't miss the old Portuguese forts along the coast.

Terekhol Fort: Now a tourist resort, it's located 42 km from Panaji on the hillock overlooking the Arbian Sea, at the mouth of the river Terekhol.

Chapora Fort: This 17th century fort's massive ramparts and scattered Muslim tombstones give one the feeling of history.

Aguada Fort and Reis Magos Forts: Closer to Panaji, these forts are redolent of the days of Portuguese supremacy. Both forts were built in the early 1600s and housed prisons until recently.

Cabo Fort: Lies on the peninsula jutting out in Arabian Sea, is the only fort that's still in use, by the Governor of Goa.

After you've had your fill of the tiny state, cap your trip with a swim in the Arabian Ocean and an exotic Feni cocktail.